Research methods · Evidence register

What do the sources actually prove?

A working catalogue of technical claims, supporting documents and open questions.

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Patents describe claimed inventions. They do not by themselves demonstrate manufacture, commercial adoption, technical superiority or direct influence. Entries below are research-status notes, not a definitive priority ranking.

How to read this register

Document identified

A dated primary document can be consulted, such as a patent specification. This confirms what the document states, not commercial success.

Object or image lead

A photograph or catalogue may establish appearance or marketing. Its date, provenance and rights must still be checked.

Open attribution

A person, name or system appears in historical research, but a precise invention or date has not yet been established here.

These categories describe the current documentation in this project, not an absolute verdict on historical importance.

Research record

Nessler

Documentary record

Technical idea: Early thermochemical process

Evidence and limits: Contemporary reporting of the London demonstration (8 October 1906) and subsequent patent documentation should be examined separately.

Source type to examine: Primary patent and 1906 trade coverage

Open question: Which claims are documented by the 1906 trade report, and which only by later recollections?

Research chapter ↗

Research record

Primary source: United States patent specification and drawings

Josef Mayer

Patent identified

Technical idea: Lateral-opening heater for flat-wound hair

Evidence and limits: US 1,619,794: filed 19 March 1925; granted 1 March 1927. A patent for an apparatus associated with flat-wound hair, not proof that Mayer originated all flat winding.

Source type to examine: Patent text and drawings

Open question: Production, adoption and priority of the winding method remain unestablished.

Research chapter ↗ · Original patent ↗

Research record

Primary source: United States patent specification and drawings

Marjorie Stewart Joyner

Patent identified

Technical idea: Supporting dome, suspended heated irons and protective elements

Evidence and limits: US 1,693,515: granted 27 November 1928. The specification and drawings document an apparatus for arranging and supporting multiple heated irons.

Source type to examine: Patent text and drawings

Open question: The patent alone does not demonstrate sales volume, widespread adoption or priority over every other system.

Research chapter ↗ · Original patent ↗

Research record

Gallia

Attribution open

Technical idea: Reported French competing system

Evidence and limits: A reported early French permanent-wave system; no precise patent or authenticated contemporary technical description is identified in this register.

Source type to examine: Original machine images, advertisements and patents

Open question: Find a dated catalogue, advertisement, machine photograph or patent and verify its maker.

Research chapter ↗

Research record

Étienne Szeemann

Attribution open

Technical idea: Reported European system

Evidence and limits: A name associated with early professional permanent-wave history; no specific patent is independently established here.

Source type to examine: Contemporary technical specification

Open question: Determine the professional role and whether any particular apparatus was patented or manufactured.

Research chapter ↗

Research record

Eugène François Suter

Patent references identified

Technical idea: Electrical heat-management approach

Evidence and limits: British GB 111372 (1917) and United States US 1,266,879 (1918) are research references for Suter’s patented work. Their full specifications and claims should be compared before describing the precise innovation.

Source type to examine: Full specification and claims

Open question: Determine the exact claimed construction and independently document its production and commercial history.

Research chapter ↗ · GB 111372 ↗ · US 1,266,879 ↗

Research record

Isidoro Calvete / Icall

Photographic lead

Technical idea: Electrical apparatus and manufacture

Evidence and limits: A photograph identified as an Icall machine is available on Wikimedia Commons with a family-provenance description. This is a lead for the appearance of an apparatus, not proof of a personal patent.

Source type to examine: Company catalogue and original patents

Open question: Verify the image date, machine model, maker, rights conditions and any inventor attribution.

Research chapter ↗ · Photographic lead ↗

Research record

Croquignole

Historical technique

Technical idea: End-to-root winding technique

Evidence and limits: A winding method generally described as rolling hair from its ends toward the scalp.

Source type to examine: Contemporary training manuals and patent record

Open question: Establish earliest dated usage and avoid attributing the entire method to a single inventor without evidence.

Research chapter ↗

Research record

Charles Frederics

Commercial lead

Technical idea: Branded commercial salon system

Evidence and limits: A commercial name associated with permanent-wave salon equipment.

Source type to examine: Period catalogues, advertisements and patent assignments

Open question: Separate trade name, company, patent holder and individual inventor.

Research chapter ↗

Research record

Cold wave

Technology documented; chronology open

Technical idea: Chemical treatment without large heated equipment

Evidence and limits: A chemical approach to permanent waving that does not depend on the large heated apparatus of earlier systems.

Source type to examine: Patents, trade manuals and chemistry literature

Open question: Verify the chronology and particular contributions of Arnold F. Willatt from contemporary sources.

Research chapter ↗

Research record

Digital perm

Contemporary technology

Technical idea: Electronically controlled heated rods plus chemical treatment

Evidence and limits: Modern systems combine chemical treatment with electronically controlled heated rods.

Source type to examine: Manufacturer specifications and professional training documents

Open question: Document particular models and avoid claiming an unproven direct lineage from Nessler-era machines.

Research chapter ↗

Primary documents and source leads

Links below open external source records. A reference being listed does not mean every historical claim has been verified against the full document.

  1. Josef Mayer, US 1,619,794 (1927) — patent specification, claims and drawings.
  2. Marjorie Stewart Joyner, US 1,693,515 (1928) — patent specification, claims and drawings.
  3. Eugène François Suter, GB 111372 (1917) — patent reference; compare full claims.
  4. Eugène François Suter, US 1,266,879 (1918) — patent reference; compare full claims.
  5. Icall machine photograph, Wikimedia Commons — investigate original date, provenance, licence and attribution before reuse.

Editorial rule: A patent grant is not evidence of manufacture. An advertisement is not evidence of performance. A surviving photograph is not by itself evidence of who invented the underlying mechanism.

This register is intentionally conservative. New evidence can change attributions and dates. Historical photographs and catalogues should be accompanied by their provenance and rights status before reproduction.

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